THE LURE Imagine a place where the people are peaceful and welcoming, where the wind blows every afternoon and endless downwinders are the norm, where it's baking hot and the sea is a perfect 28°C when Europe and North America are at their coldest.
Issue #25 had a feature on Mui Ne. It is available free online, just click here.
THE SET UP MUI NE: Mui Ne's main kite bay is roughly ten kilometres west of Mui Ne village. The golden beach stretches for as far as you can see. A popular downwinder is to race down the 30 kilometres from Mui Ne to Phan Thiet! You'll experience all types of conditions from chop and shore-break through perfect flat water spots and on to wave sections where they can stack up with three metre faces out back. Take your pick where you choose to ride but always ask a local's advice.
PHAN RANG: The prime location is actually a military zone and you need a government permit to kite there. Vietnam Kitesurfing Tours have been granted access, so you'll have the place to yourselves riding with them. Geographically it's a kiting gold mine, with two reefs separated by a deep bay, offering left and right reef-breaks as well as a safe beach-break. The reefs are tidal but you can still kite in the deep bay at low tide where there is flat water to improve your skills on. A ten kilometre downwinder to Cape Dinh will see you ripping up some lagoons. There's no one else kiting here; it's rural kiting brilliance. If you need more conveniences, head to Mui Ne. SAILING CLUB RESORT Head downwind from Windchimes and the swell gets bigger the closer you get to the end of the bay. You'll find some clean wave riding, though watch the current because it wants to take you past the headland. There are other schools further upwind to the east, the biggest being Jibes. They're very organised and professional but the beach is very small, the wind's not as good and we preferred the laid back atmosphere further downwind. Jibes does have a good late night bar though! HARBOUR WALL Along the downwinder to Phan Thiet (see opposite page) is a perfect flat water spot; the Harbour Wall, which you can access by dirt track. It's not easy to find, but it can be done on your motorbike!
SOME WAVE SPOTS: THE GRAVEYARD Head east along the beach road to Mui Ne fishing village. You'll know you're there when you can see all the fishing boats in the harbour from the hill. Go straight through until you come out the other side at a fork. Take the left, and head past the headland where the cemetery is, and on towards the next bay. Go as far as you can and you'll reach the Gang resort - the beach is on the left. Wind is cross on from the left and there are three metre-plus waves being dished up out the back. Be careful near the island, as a strong current will pull you through the gap and there's no coming back! Blue seas and white sand is what it's all a out here but watch out at high tide because the beach gets quite small and you have to land your kite in the sea to avoid the fences.
TURTLE ISLAND About 400m before you get to the Graveyard spot take the obvious left turn that takes you east along this bay past the next headland. The road goes inland over the headland into the third bay, at the end of which is the little island. If the wind and tide are right you'll find a sand bar and super-flat water downwind. There's also a very good wave riding downwinder from here ending up at the Graveyard. Another favourite spot with the locals is in front of a resort called Pandenus, about five kilometres upwind of the Graveyard, with smaller waves but slightly cleaner faces and a more cross shore wind. DOWNWINDER TO PHAN THIET This is a permanent fixture among the regulars. Most days, just after three o'clock a bunch of people head off from the main bay, sail past the Sailing Club at the end of the bay, ride the big waves there before continuing around the headland following the perfect waves and swell. You can stop anywhere and grab a motor bike taxi home, or carry on about ten kilometres past the harbour walls of Pan Thiet town to a spot just beyond the Novo Hotel. Take some Dong and come in at one of the bars at the end of the beach for a well-deserved beer. A car / bike taxi back to Mui Ne costs about $2.
WIND, WATER AND WEATHER The main windy season is November to April when it averages 25 knots most days, but frequently goes up to 35 thanks to the venturi effect of the mountains and sand dunes. Bring your small kites, including your six metre! VKT only operate their tours from the end of October to April as the NE wind season is most reliable in the south of Vietnam. October to December is the big swell season, offering the best wave conditions. January to April sees less swell but more sunshine. Vietnam has perfect holiday weather with air temperatures of 27 - 32°C / 80 - 90°F degrees year round. The average water temperature sits invitingly around 28°C / 82°F throughout the year.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Phan Rang is about five hours from Ho Chi Minh city airport (SGN) and two-and-a-half hours from Mui Ne, which is 220 kilometres east of Ho Chi Minh city. Buses and taxis run many times a day from Ho Chi Minh to Mui Ne. Taxis are available from the airport for about US$70 and the bus costs just $6. Sinh Café and Hanh café are two of the recommended bus ompanies, leaving from the Pham Ngu Lao street area in Ho Chi Minh city. 'Bungalow' is the key word for accommodation in Mui Ne. Where you kite south of Phan Rang is very isolated, which is why you need a knowledgeable guide. Expect to pay around $10 for your own appealing thatched selfcontained unit in Mui Ne. Splashing out $200 will see you in a beach front 'resort'. The food is worth a trip to Vietnam in itself. Eat from street vendors to fantastic restaurants serving fresh sea food. You'll feast like a king for very little every day. Hit the many lively bars and clubs and don't miss the full moon parties, just watch out for the 'working girls'!
NO WIND? There's very rarely no wind in this area and VKT have never run a tour without wind! However, you can surf a few different spots in the area and also visit the buddha temple built into the side of a rock mountain, which is a favourite for sunset beers at the end of a great day's kiting. Of course, Mui Ne has much more for the tourist back up the road
GETTING ABOUT Scooters are the way to go once you get to your destination. Haggle for $4 per day if you take it for a couple of weeks.
DON'T MISS • Full Moon parties. • Shopping in Phan Thiet. • A visit to Ho Chi Min city.
AIRPORTS Ho Chi Min City (SGN – formerly Saigon) – four hours by road to Mui Ne. A taxi straight from the airport will cost around $70 and will take between three and four hours. Taking the bus or train will set you back just $5 and take four and a half hours. You need a visa to enter Vietnam, so sort this out before you leave.
